Shoe manufacture



F. J. TOBACCO 2,111,705

SHOE MANUFACTURE March 22, 1938.

Filed Jan. 9,, 1957 2 sheets-sneer 1 ATTORNEYS March 22, 1938.

F. J. TOBACCO 2,1 11,705 SHOE MANUFACTURE Filed Jan. 9, 1937 v 2 Sheets-Sh eet 2 ATTORNEYS i Patented Mar. 22,1938

. practice of the new method, .the tacks so used UNITEDPSTATEAS' PATENT orrlcs snot: MANUFACTURE. Frank Tobacco, New York, N. Y. Application January 9, 1937, swarm. 119,117.

" 7 Claims. (01. 12- 442) This invention relates to the ,manufacture of articles of foot wear, generally referred to as shoes, but including shoes, slippers, and the like, and is concerned more particularly with a" shoe of novel construction and a method by which such shoes can be produced rapidly and at. low cost. The shoe of the invention is of the flexible type although not made by the turning method, and it is superior to similar prior shoes in that it has a more attractive, better fitting appear ance, and can be made with substantial savings in both labor-and materials.

The new shoe, which includes an upper assembly, outer sole, and heel, diifers from prior'shoes in that it does not have both an insole and a sock lining, but the sock lining of thinfiexible material is employed for the ordinary purposes of both such a lining and an insole. The sock lining,'. which extends substantially to the sole and heel lines of the shoe, has its ilateral edges forward of the heel seat secured by stitching to the lower edges of the upper lining, and the upper is secured to the sock lining by having its lower edges overlapping the latter and cemented thereto. The operation of aflixing the edges of the upper to the sock lining is performed after the assembled parts are mounted on a last and the method of attachment referred to permits the upperto be drafted in snuglyagainst the last so that the shoe has a neat close fitting form and wrinkles and bulging are avoided.

The upper assembly includes the usual box toe, counter, and shank piece, and the edges of theupper, upper lining, and counter extend in beneath the heel seat portion of the shank piece and may be secured thereto by tacks. By the are prevented from marring the sock lining and forming projections on the upper surface of the shank piece. I The outer sole and heel are attached to the upper unit in. accordance with standard practice, and thereafter, the heel seat portion of the sock lining is aflixed to the upper surface of the shank piece. and provides a smooth interior surface covering forthe sole and the shank piece thsioughout its length.

Fora" better understandingof the invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Ffigurelis a plan viewof the interior of the nPDIerwith the upper lining in place;

-- Figure 2 is aplan view, with portions broken away of the upper unit mounted on the last;

1 suitable material and usually of the same mategure lifi s a'se'ctional view on the line 3-3 of gure 4v is a view similar to Figure 2, showing the parts at a later stage in the operation;

blank lob. The heel blanks are secured together by a line of stitching ll extending vertically of the heel and are secured at their forward ends by curved lines of stitching 12 to the rear edges 'of the toe blank. The upper is provided with a lining l3 which, in the construction shown, includes a heel blank I31; and a toe blank I31),

and these parts of the lining are secured to one another and to the upper by the lines of stitching l2. The upper lining is also secured to the upper by stitching I along the edge of the top opening 15. It will be noted that along the sides of the heel seat portion of the upper, the edge I6 of the upper lining is substantially coincident with the edge of the upp r. Forward of the heel seat, the lateral edges "of the upper lining are spaced inwardly from the'lateraledges of the upper a'substantial distance, while at the toe, the edge 18 of the upper lining lies close to but is spaced inwardly a slight distance from the toe edge ofgthe upper.

The upper lining may be of any suitable mate'- rial, such as thin leather, cloth, etc., and to its lateral edges is secured a socklini'ng 'IQmade of rial as the upper lining. The sock lining is of substantially the same size and shape as the face of the last on which the shoe is to be made and it is secured to the lateral edges l.| of the upper lining by stitching 20, which begins forward of the heel seat and extends along the edges of the sock lining to points 2| at either side of the toeend, although if desired, the stitching may extend entirely around the toe'end of the sock lin- 45 ing and upper lining. When theupp lining and sock liningare made of leather, they are stitched together with the grain side inward or toward the interior of the shoe, and after this operation, a counter 22 of the usual material is inserted between the upper and upper lining at the heel. seat, and the assembled parts are mounted on a last in the usual way.

- A metal plate 23, having a-tack opening 24 *therethrough, is thensecured by. means of a -against the heel of the last, and the back of the upper is secured in position relative to the last by a tack passed through the upper and into the last near the top edge of the upper at the back The next operation is that of securing the side edges of the upper in position, and, for this purpose, a coating of cement 21 is applied to. the inner surface of the upper along its lower edge and a similar coating 28 is applied to the sock lining along the edge thereof. The sides 29 of the upper are then drawn in over the sock lining and shank piece and secured thereto from points forward of the heel seat to the points 2| on either side of the toe. A box toe in soft condition is then inserted between the upper and the upper lining at the toe, and the lower edges of the box and of the upper lining are trimmed to the edge of the-last. The toe and heel are next lasted either by hand or on a bed lasting machine in the ordinary manner, and the inturned portions of the upper, upper lining, and counter are held in place by suitable cement. If desired, those overlapping portions may be tacked to the shank piece at the heel seat, and the tacks, as they are driven through the shank piece, are clinched by contact with the plate 23.

The upper unit thus assembled is now ready for the application of the sole, and, for this purpose, the outer surface of the inturned portions of the upper are roughened and coated with cement. A metal shank stiffener is then laid against the shank piece, a filler of any suitable type is applied, if desired, to the lower surface of the sock lining, and the outer sole is then attached by cement by the usual machines employed for the purpose. Thereafter, the sole is trimmed and finished in the usual way and the last removed. The heel seat portion of the sock lining, which is not attached to the top surface of the heel seat portion of the shank piece, is then folded back, the steel plate 23 is removed, and a heel attached to the heel seat in the ordinary manner by nails driven through the shank piece. The upper face of the shank piece at the heel seat is then coated 'with cement and the heel seat portion of the sock lining is folded back into place and secured to the shank piece.

With the construction described, it will be apparent that the sock lining serves the usual purpose of a sock lining and also that of an insole. Also, while the sock lining is stitched to the upper lining, the stitching lies along the edge of.the

- face of the last, and the seams, therefore, do

not form projections on the inner surface of the shoe which would cause discomfort to the wearer.

Since the tacks, by which the overlapping portions of the upper, upper lining, and counter at the heel seat have been secured to the shank piece, have been clinched by the temporary metal plate 23, the upper surface of the shank piece is smooth and without projections, and the sock lining at the heel seat is likewise smooth and unmarred.

By securing the lateral margin of the upper lining to the sock lining by stitching as described, there is a substantial saving in material, since the upper lining does not have to be cut with the usual lasting allowance which represents a considerable quantity of material for a pair of shoes. Another feature of saving is the elimination of the insole and the cost of cutting it.

Moreover, since the sock lining is stitched to the upper lining during the manufacture of the shoe, the operation of inserting a sock lining is eliminated. The lasting operation is also simpler and can be done more rapidly and easily, because only the upper is lasted by the shoemaker instead of both the upper and upper lining. The drafting in of the upper along the sides insures that the upper will fit the last snugly and thus give the shoe an attractive close fitting appearance without wrinkles or bulges. The new shoe can be made with an upper lining and sock lining either of leather or of any other desired material, such 'as satin, and in either case, the interior of the shoe is smooth, unwrinkled, and without projections.

I claim:

1. A shoe which comprises a sock lining, an upper, an upper lining having its lower lateral edges secured to the lateral edges of the sock lining forward of the heel seat by stitching lying along the inner edges of the bottom of the shoe, a shank piece lying against the under surface of the sock lining and secured thereto by cement at the heel seat, a counter between the upper and upper lining at the back of the shoe, the upper, upper lining, and counter having lower inturned edges overlapping and secured to the under surface of the shank piece at the heel seat by nails clinched against the shank piece, and the upper having lower inturned edges secured to the sock lining and shank piece forward of the heel seat, and an outer sole secured to the upper assembly.

2. A shoe which comprises a sock lining, an upper having a lining with portions of the lower edges of the upper lining stitched to the sock lining along the lateral edges only of the latter between the heel seat and toe, a shank piece lying against the under surface of the sock lining, a counter between the upper and upper lining at the back of the shoe, the upper, upper lining, and counter having inturned edges overlapping and secured to the under surface of the shank piece at the heel seat, and the upper having inturned edges overlapping and secured to the shank piece and sock lining forward of the heel seat, and an outer sole secured to the upper assembly.

3. A shoe which comprises a sock lining, an upper, an upper lining stitched to the upper along the top edges thereof and having the lateral portions of its lower edges secured to the lateral edges of the sock lining between the forward end of the heel seat and the toe, a shank piece lying against the under surface of the sock lining, a counter between the upper and upper lining at the back of the shoe, the upper, upper lining, andcounter having inturned edges overlying and secured to the under surface of the shank piece at the heel seat by tacks, the upper having inturned lower edges overlapping and cemented to the shank piece and sock lining forward of the heel seat, an outer sole secured to the upper assembly, and a heel secured to the shank piece f-an upper lining, securing a sock lining to the lower edge of the upper lining by stitching ear-- tending along the lateral edges of the sock lining forward of the heel seat, inserting a-counter between the upper and upper lining at the back of the shoe, mounting the assembled parts upon a last, securing a metal plate to the upper surface of a shank piece, applying the shank piece to the outer surface of the sock lining with the metal plate in contact with the sock lining, drawing in the edges of the upper forward of the heel seat and securing said edges to the shank piece and sock lining, drawing in the edges of the upper, upper lining, and counter over the shank piece at the heel se'at, passing nails through the drawn in edges of the upper, counter, and upper lining and the shank piece; said nails impinging against the metal plate, cementing an outer sole to the upper assembly, removing the last, removing the metal plate from the shank piece, attaching a heel to the shank piece, and securing the heel seat portion of the sock lining to the upper surlining with themetal plate between the sock lining and shank piece, turning in the lower edges of the upper, upper lining, and counter over the shank piece at the heel seat portion of the latter, and securing said edges to the shank piece by tacks driven through the edges and shank piece and impinged upon the plate.

6. A shoe comprising an upper lining, a sock lining, stitches connecting said upper lining and seek lining, an upper, the lower edge of said upper being inwardly bent and forming a marginal portion secured to said sock lining by cement, said 'marginal portion completely covering and protecting said stitches, the lower surface of said marginal portion being abraded substantially over its entire surface, and'an outer sole secured to said abraded surface by cem'ent.

7. The method of making shoes which consists in connecting an upper lining and sock lining by stitches, lasting an upper over said stitching so as to form a marginal portion upon the lower edge of said upper, securing the inner surface of said marginal portion. by cement to said sock lining, roughening substantially the "entire lower surface of said marginal portion, and securing an outer sole by cement to said roughenedsurface.

FRANK J. TOBACCO. 

